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Post by Jason Sneed on Oct 3, 2002 22:18:01 GMT -5
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Post by Tim Bohan on Oct 7, 2002 10:34:08 GMT -5
Jason, that looks good...but does it work? Email me, I have some ideas I want to run by you, maybe you have the answers. Thanks. Tim
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Post by Tim Bohan on Oct 7, 2002 10:35:39 GMT -5
oooppss forgot to leave my email... ;D tbohan@strato.net
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Post by Bill Vining on Oct 7, 2002 20:20:05 GMT -5
Jason,
I have a couple of questions.
Did you lower the rudder as it relates to the casting? How did you find the hole position? And is it fix or slotted? Did you change the shape of the top of the rudder?
A picture of the rudder alone without the casting would be great help.
Thanks
Bill
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Post by Tim Bohan on Oct 8, 2002 7:15:50 GMT -5
Has anyone tried this...put our rudder into an Inter 18/20 casting, or any other suitable casting that already has a good downlock/uplock system inplace? I don't have access to an Inter casting to see how the pintles line up but it would be a quick and easy fix to just move one pintle on each stern and put the Inter system on. Of course you would have to shorten the cross bar a couple of inches and some other minor modifications might be necessary. Anyone got an Inter setup to see if it fits? I think the Inter 20 tiller arms would be too long but could be cut down. The 18 should be about right length to keep the cross bar from interfering with the mainsheet/traveler. Thanks. Tim
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Post by Bill Vining on Oct 9, 2002 17:43:11 GMT -5
APS sells an "auto release rudder cleat" that might be a perfect addition to Randy and Jason's system. www.apsltd.com/Depts/dept247.aspClamcleat® Auto-Release Racing Mini Cleat Great for dinghies and other boats with swing-up rudder assemblies. This cleat flips up to release the rudder hold-down line when a set load is exceeded (usually when hitting underwater objects or bottom). The C257 is easily reset or adjusted for different release loads, even out of the water. For lines 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Aluminum. Usually mounted on the tiller. C257 Auto Release Racing Mini $19.75 |
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Post by Wouter Hijink on Oct 10, 2002 6:33:38 GMT -5
And even in low cleating mode it requires a good amount of force to uncleat. In the photo's I see a 2:1 system and that will require even more load on the rudder blades before uncleating.
Made me question the wisdom of using of it on my boat with lightweight rudders.
But it indeed a nice system.
Wouter
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Post by Bill Vining on Oct 10, 2002 8:20:29 GMT -5
Wouter,
Thanks for the input, I am not planning on using the 2 to 1 set up on my rudders, I am going straight to the auto kick up cleat. I havent tried it yet, so I cant report the effectiveness of the system, but I am hopeful.
At the very least Randy and Jason's system allows you to lock the rudders down while moving forward, and then unlock them when you approach the beach (or get hung up on a bouy or something) . With the current system it is very hard to lock the rudders down while moving foward or release them as you approach the beach. Even if the kickup isnt perfect, its still a great improvement in my opinion.
Bill
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Post by Jason Sneed on Oct 12, 2002 21:19:18 GMT -5
I only filled the holes in the rudder, then put the boat on some saw horses and drilled a new hole. Also, I think the MA is really 3:1 . Everything works fine, the only problem with mine is I raked the rudders to far forward so the stearing is VERY sensitive. To fix this I am just goning to put some stops at the bottom of the casting.
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Post by Wouter Hijink on Oct 13, 2002 6:38:35 GMT -5
I see now that it is 3:1 ; mistake is mine.
Sorry
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